Orchids

Somewhere along the way, orchids got a reputation for being fussy, fragile, impossible. The kind of plant that punishes you for looking at it wrong. That reputation is almost entirely wrong — and it’s kept a lot of people from growing one of the most rewarding plants on earth.

We’ve been growing orchids in St. Petersburg’s heat and humidity for years. Here’s what we’ve actually learned — stripped of the intimidating Latin and the overcomplicated care charts.

Light: Bright, not direct

Most orchids — especially the Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) you’ll find at any garden center — want bright, indirect light. Think a few feet back from a sunny window, or right next to an east-facing one. If the leaves look bleached or have brown patches, it’s getting too much sun. If they’re dark, glossy green, it probably needs more light.

🌿 Quick tip: The perfect leaf color for a healthy Phalaenopsis is medium green — not dark, not pale. Use that as your light gauge before you touch the watering can.

Water: Less than you think

This is where most beginners go wrong. Orchids grow naturally on trees and rocks, not in soil. Their roots need to dry out between waterings. For most homes, that means watering once a week in summer, once every ten days or two weeks in winter.

The best method: take your orchid to the sink, water it thoroughly, let it drain completely, then put it back. Never let it sit in standing water. The clear plastic nursery pots most orchids come in are actually useful — you can see the roots and check moisture levels at a glance. Green roots = moist. Silver-grey roots = time to water.

Repotting: Do it after it blooms

Orchids should be repotted every one to two years, after the blooms drop. Use orchid-specific bark mix — never regular potting soil, which holds too much moisture and will rot the roots. Go up only one pot size at a time. Trim any black or mushy roots with clean scissors before repotting.

Getting it to rebloom

After the flowers drop, cut the spike down to the base and move the plant somewhere with a 10°F temperature drop at night — a windowsill in autumn does this naturally. Keep watering normally. Within 8–12 weeks, a new spike usually appears. Patience is the whole game here.

Quick reference

• ☀️ Light: Bright indirect. East or west window. No harsh midday sun.

• 💧 Water: Once a week in summer, less in winter. Dry out between waterings.

• 🌡️ Temperature: 65–80°F during the day. Cool nights trigger reblooming.

• 🪴 Potting mix: Orchid bark only. Never regular soil.

• 🌱 Fertilizer: Diluted orchid fertilizer every 2–3 weeks when actively growing.

The best thing about orchids is that once you understand their actual needs — bright light, infrequent watering, good drainage — they become remarkably easy to keep. And when you’re ready to go beyond the grocery store Phalaenopsis, there’s a whole world of rare, unusual, extraordinary orchids waiting.

That’s kind of our thing.

Ready to grow something rare?

Browse our collector-grade orchid selection — species, hybrids and unusual varieties grown right here in St. Pete.

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